Daring, excellence, and inventiveness: the history of Cartier watchmaking is a reflection of a unique state of mind. A boundless tradition of research and pioneering that has doubly presided over the creation of a new Cartier watch for men, characterised by a bold Manufacture spirit: the .Calibre de Cartier. This creation is equipped with the first self-winding mechanical movement crafted entirely by Cartier: the calibre 1904 MC. A new move forward that testifies to the priority Cartier gives to developing its own movements, based on in-depth, ambitious research. Calibre de Cartier is a watch of character that challenges the round form in watchmaking through its mechanical construction, its noble balance between resilience and finesse, and the contrasting interplay of its polished, satin-brushed finishes.
A men’s watch
At first glance, the Calibre de Cartier watch is an arresting sight! Its powerful lines, robust case, and novel structure all indicate a Manufacture watch with a strongly defined character. Its mechanical construction resolutely confirms this initial impression: its round case, measuring 42 mm in diameter, is heightened by a bezel and extended by four curved horns set precisely into the cylindrical case middle. It has a forthright personality that invites you to surpass your own limits. Striking a subtle balance between power and finesse, the Calibre de Cartier watch is punctuated by a polished, satin-brushed double shoulder, which protects the sides of the crown from any impacts that could affect its operation. The bezel that embellishes the case also plays on contrasts: smooth and polished on the exterior, it becomes increasingly dynamic as it approaches the case. A 28 degree free-fall towards the dial culminates in a fluted ring marked with 120 notches; a subtle detail that refers both to watchmaking trains and to the Manufacture spirit that pervades this new masculine timepiece. The dial offers a virile reinterpretation of both the Cartier watchmaking codes and Roman numerals. It is dominated by an extra-large XII figure in subtle relief.
The calibre 1904 MC
Christened the 1904 MC in homage to the birth of Cartier watchmaking, the first self-winding movement to be entirely produced by Cartier perpetuates the vitality of an approach that is driven by a constant desire to go further. The conquest of time took on a whole new meaning in 1904 when Louis Cartier created a watch for his friend, the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. It was one of the very first watches to be worn on the wrist and enabled the pilot to read the time while keeping his hands on the controls during flight. This exciting development was born from passion, a taste for adventure, and a pioneering spirit that propelled watchmaking firmly into the modern era. More than a century later, the 1904 MC movement is launching a new chapter dedicated to Cartier watchmaking.
Precision, resilience, and reliability have determined the development of the first mechanical self-winding movement to be entirely created by Cartier. A successful blend of technology and aesthetics, the calibre 1904 MC meets the extremely demanding standards set by Cartier for all of its creations. This new 11 ½ line calibre has been designed to ensure excellent chronometric stability at all levels of winding, whether the watch is worn for an hour or an entire day. To achieve this, the movement is equipped with a double barrel that guarantees the excellent, long-term consistency of the mainspring, thus making it possible to control and stabilize timekeeping precision.
The calibre 1904 MC is fitted with a fine regulation system for perfect adjustment of the movement’s chronometry. Carried out by Cartier watchmakers, who meticulously adjust the arrow of the C-shaped index, this operation is essential to the accurate running of the watch. To enable each owner to set the watch accurately to the nearest second, the calibre 1904 MC is equipped with a stop-seconds system. When the crown is pulled out fully, the small-seconds hand stops instantly and immediately restarts once the crown is pushed back in against the case.The winding system of self-winding movements is often subjected to severe constraints that may affect its performance. To counteract this weakness, the calibre 1904 MC features a system of ceramic ball bearings fitted at the center of the rotor, which ensures excellent shock resistance and tremendous durability. Cartier has also abandoned the traditional reversers used in self-winding mechanisms, replacing them with an even more innovative pawl system that results in a faster winding rate, thus allowing the watch to be wound more easily. Lastly, when the watch is worn on the wrist, a bi-directional winding system enables the oscillating weight to wind the movement as it rotates both clockwise and anti-clockwise.
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